Contributing writer
Captain Jim Kalvin
Ever been across the Okeechobee Waterway? If you have, you know that it’s an experience – a chance to see Florida like land-lubbers will never know. What lies between the endless concrete seawalls in Ft. Myers and the endless concrete seawalls in Stuart is a step back in time that showcases how beautiful Wild Florida really is. It’s a fabulous journey and it can be quite an adventure.
For me, the majority of the trips across have been work related – delivering a boat to the other coast for service, bringing one back that’s been fixed, or having this route be the beginning or the end of a longer delivery. Either a trip up or down the Eastern seaboard to or from points north all the way to Nantuckett.
If you’re going across the lake, make sure to check your fuel and provisions. You may not be out of range of where you desire to stop – but you may not be able to get there when you want depending on your location and the lock schedules. You could only be a quarter of a mile away from your destination – but blocked by the lock structure. As well, storms and redevelopment frequently shake the Etch-A Sketch along this route, and things can change quickly from season to season. Fuel stops only disappear – no new ones are going in.
Speaking of lock schedules – make sure you call ahead prior to departure. More than a few times people I’ve known have started this journey only to get a portion of the way across only to find out that one of the locks is closed for repairs or service. Definitely a downer when that happens! Especially if the closed structure is on the other side of the lake. That makes for a long back-track!
Go online to https://www.saj.usace.army.mil/Missions/Civil-Works/Lake-Okeechobee/Okeechobee-Waterway-OWW/ to confirm that all locks are in working order before you cast off.
It’s roughly 140 to 160 miles across from west coast to east coast – depending upon your cross-track error and how good a navigator you are. The run across Lake O’s open water from Clewiston to Port Myaca is roughly 30 miles. People ask me frequently, “how long does it take to get to Stuart?” The simple answer that gets me in trouble every time is, “well, that depends on how fast your boat is.”
Definitely a “Captain Obvious” answer, but it’s true! I just finished a trip on a 36 Pursuit with twin 350hp Yamahas and what should have been a one day trip took a day and a half from Sanibel to Stuart. We weren’t pushing too hard, we didn’t leave Sanibel until 9:30, and the locks are the great “equalizer” you understand. We got to St. Lucie Lock 20 mins too late for their last East-bound opening of the day – which is roughly how long the Myaca lock operator waited for a slower vessel to catch the opening we were participating in a few hours earlier.
We would’ve made it across same day if we’d left an hour earlier or if we’d caught the previous opening at any one of the 4 locks to the west. It’s a roll of the dice.
The slowest trip I’ve ever had was bringing an 80’ barge to Naples from Ft. Lauderdale. With an average speed of 7 knots, it was a lesson in patience and Inner Peace.
And fuel consumption…
That trip reminded me just how beautiful the passage really is. We would run (crawl) each day until we reached a closed lock or got shut down by darkness. We spent 6 nights on the barge – camping most nights in a pop-up tent on the deck in the “Arrival Point” of the lock basin.
On this trip, we were forced to take in the scenery as we went (had no choice!), and the sunsets and sunrises were riveting out in the middle of East Nowhere. You hear the cattle calling each other as night falls, and the frogs and other critters create an Olde Florida symphony that is long-forgotten by most of us. Most of the lock locations have designated camp spots upland, playgrounds for kids, restrooms, and dockage to fit vessels of considerable size.
As well, there are retail establishments with dock facilities, shore power, and hot showers along the way if you plan your trip and call ahead. Just take a virtual tour of the route on-line and you’ll see the available possibilities.
And – staying on the hook is always an option – which I’ve done numerous times.
Along the route, you get to see the dream homes of countless people who just wanted to move out away from the city lights. Beautiful, private waterfront acreage homes that most don’t know exist. You see miles and miles of natural bank, mangrove forests, cattle country, cypress swamp, and you have the opportunity also to visit LaBelle, Moore Haven, Roland Martin’s Fish Camp in Clewiston, and Indiantown as you pass west to east. Once you pass through the St. Lucie Lock you’re in civilization again, and fuel, restaurant, and lodging opportunities begin to appear.
My favorite trip was when my Wife, Ruth, surprised me with a house-boat rental for my 45th birthday. Boy, that was a long time ago! But we left out of Marinatown in North Ft. Myers, spent 4 nights on the hook “in between” civilized settlements, and spent one night dockside at Roland Martin’s enjoying fresh seafood, live music, and a great crowd. It was an awesome time! Once the last lock opening of the day was done the traffic came to a complete stop and the canal went eerily quiet. No noises but the fish popping, the cattle lowing, the wind in the trees, and every once in a while - the birds and the bees made an appearance.
We’ve been so conditioned to live with the “noise” that the natural world can be a surprise to us. Once you force yourself out away from the lights and the concrete, however, it’s amazing how quickly you settle into the circadian rhythm of Mother Earth. It’s worth the time to take this voyage – and you can do it safely on a small vessel by planning your overnight stays (if needed) in hotels, marinas, or camping at the lock recreational areas.
If you have a boat trip planned on the coast, and the weather looks questionable – consider a trip east up the Redneck Riviera. If you’ve never been through a lock before, you’ll be an expert once you navigate through the Franklin Lock east of I-75. The lock operators are very helpful, the tie-up lines are already in place (hanging ready in the lock) and all you’ll need is a First Mate, life preservers, and a couple of fenders.
Bon Voyage!
Capt. Jim Kalvin
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Captain Jim Kalvin is a retired Marine Contractor and Marina Manager, and a fully insured current USCG Licensed 100 Ton Master. He specializes in Eastern Seaboard deliveries from the Keys to Nantuckett, and the Gulf Coast from Everglades City to Corpus Christi. He can be reached at 239-427-6344, or at james.kalvin61@gmail.com.
